Category Archives: Fine Fragrance

Fragrance insights: new brand ‘tapping’ the DNA of extinct flowers

Fine Fragrance Trend Reports

Extinct flowers are this brands fragrant muse with the debut of the Scent Surrection Collection

Roz Wicks

As a fragrance marketer and fragrance trend forecaster I always get excited by new launches, new fragrance stories and fragrance creativity. I love hearing the inspirations behind collections and reading words crafted to transport you to the scent before you’ve even smelt it. 

And that’s exactly what this new brand did when I read about it’s launch. The Future Society has focused on a very unique muse and story: extinct flowers.

The perfume brand was developed by leading Boston-based beauty biotech firm Arcaea, founded by MIT-trained scientist Jasmina Aganovic.

After sequencing the DNA of extinct flower samples from Harvard Herbarium, the brand collaborated with renowned perfumers (including Jérome Epinette: Robertet, Daniela Andrier: Givaudan and Olivia Jan: Givaudan) to bring these lost blooms new life– creating singular scents that can only be made through biology.

It was the DNA sequencing technology that made it possible to understand what scent molecules these flowers may have once produced. This data was then shared with the brands perfumers, who used their knowledge of aromachemicals and botany to create six fragrances for the Future Society’s Scent Surrection Collection.

Now, not being a trained scientist, botanist or biologist I have no idea how this actually works, (I’ve watched every Jurassic Park movie – they didn’t cover this), but for me its the stories and the ethos behind the scents that I love. It’s a new way to look back and look forward at the same time, or as the brand puts it; “It is a combination of art and science, enabling consumers to experience the stories of these flowers once thought lost to time”.

Future Society Scent Surrection Collection: 

Grassland Opera

We used powerful biotechnology to sequence a DNA sample of Orbexilum stipulatum, a flowering plant that once flourished on Rock Island in the Falls of the Ohio but was last observed in 1881. The flower is thought to have collapsed when the buffalo ceased migrating across the planes.

Its fragrance is an open composition that grounds our brazen consciousness.


Its colour is a flash of emerald glittering through a crack in the ground.
Its look is a satin bomber jacket and shorts, patterned in a bold botanical.
Its mood is an eclectic mystique.

TOP NOTES: Bergamot, Clary Sage, Ginger, Fig Leaves
HEART NOTES: Ylang Ylang, Jasmine, Mimosa
BASE NOTES: Sandalwood, Patchouli, Guaiacwood, Akigalawood, Ambrofix

Floating Forest

We combined the intelligence of DNA sequencing and the imagination of the world’s best perfumers to give new life to the extinct Shorea cuspidata, a towering tree endemic to Borneo whose branches once grazed the sky at up to 45 meters. Last spotted in the wild in 1998, logging activities in its forest habitat forever took its descendants from the earth.

The fragrance is a sanctuary of stillness in our shifting world.


Its colour is a green speckled stone—worn round and edged smooth.
Its look is a jacquard cocoon top, sleeves billowing in the breeze.
Its mood is a moment of meditative release.

TOP NOTES: Black Pepper, Bergamot
HEART NOTES: Freesia, Waterlilly, Rose Absolute
BASE NOTES: Cedarwood, Salted Musk, Wet Stones, Papyrus, Driftwood

Haunted Rose

We used powerful biotechnology to sequence a DNA sample of Macrostylis villosa subspecies 1 + 2, a small aromatic shrub with needle-like leaves that once produced clusters of white flowers for long periods of the year throughout South Africa. Its population fragmented in 1960 due to the effects of urbanization on the shrub’s native regions.

The fragrance is an unwavering spirit that illuminates our tomorrow.


Its color is a petal-flushed cheek—sweetened with anticipation.
Its look is a silk slip dress, embellished with feathers and a chiffon hem.
It’s mood is an enthralled tranquillity.

TOP NOTES: Black Pepper, Saffron
HEART NOTES: Rose Absolute, Passionfruit
BASE NOTES: Ambroxan, Sandalwood

Solar Canopy

We used powerful biotechnology to sequence a DNA sample of Hibiscadelphus wilderianus, a Hawaiian endemic species that once covered the Southern Slope of Haleakala but was last observed in 1912. The tree that produced this flower vanished due to deforestation.

The fragrance is a rhythmic release of kinetic energy, spiralling us infinitely.


Its colour is a gleam of fuchsia shooting across a hot orange sky.
Its look is a gradient-print macrame dress, fringe swishing loose.
Its mood is the heartbeat of euphoria.

TOP NOTES: Bergamot, Red Currant, Pink Pepper
HEART NOTES: Turkish Rose, Lychee, Pistachio, Magnolia
BASE NOTES: Vetiver, Ambroxan, Pink Sugar

Reclaimed Flame

We used powerful biotechnology to sequence a DNA sample of Leucadendron grandiflorum, a species that once flowered on the Western Cape of South Africa. This species has not been spotted since 1960, as frequent wildfires spurred on by land development.

The fragrance is a beat within our hearts that keeps us forever outspoken.


Its color is a flicker of gold glimpsed as the sun crackles the horizon.
Its look is a high-shine iridescent skirt, worn with flat matte sandals.
Its mood is the redefinement of rules.

TOP NOTES: Bergamot, Grapefruit
HEART NOTES: Geranium, Curcuma, Eucalyptus
BASE NOTES: Armoise, Chamomile

Invisible Woods

We used powerful biotechnology to sequence a DNA sample of Wendlandia angustifolia, a small flowering tree that once thrived in India’s Western Ghats Mountain Range. Due to perpetual drought that overtook the region, its delicate white bloom had not been recorded since 1917.

The fragrance is a tangled wind that whips us into the known unknown.


Its color is an inky purple night, brushstroked by silver clouds.
Its look is a wool bustier layered over a mesh turtleneck.
Its mood is captivated by contrasts.

TOP NOTES: Grapefruit, Eucalyptus, Ginger
HEART NOTES: Rose Absolute, Chamomile
BASE NOTES: Iris, Akigalawood

The Fine Fragrance Trend Stories Reports track trends in Men’s, Women’s and Genderless scents, exploring new influential macrotrends, breaking down key ingredients and themes with a look to how these concepts and fragrance notes will be evolving the fragrance scene of the future.

For a category deep dive into fine fragrances and perfumes, with new trend driving products, and future fragrance focused predictions, get in touch and ask for a bespoke project proposal.

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Fine fragrance trends 2023: water inspired scents are evolving

Fine Fragrance Trends 2023

New fragrance launches are awash with watery inspiration

Roz Wicks

Fragrances inspired by the oceans, rivers, lakes and seas are nothing new, (Davidoff Cool Water anyone), but we have started seeing a new generation of water inspired scents appear on the fragrance scene, and this category is going from one of my least favourite to a recent ‘Boots moment’ where I ‘may’ have slightly overused a tester of the new Hugo Boss Pacific.

Sorry. Not sorry.

I bought a bottle too. BF was pleased. But he can’t understand how it’s going down so quickly though as it’s on his side of the perfume door in the fridge (yes perfumes are in the fridge in my house. IYKYK). I can’t explain the liquid loss. Probably evaporation. 

But.. back to the trends and the new launches. I cheated for this article and instead of writing a long piece, I thought I would share some excerpts from my quarterly Fine Fragrance Trends Reports as these have mapped the evolution of the category since their launch by popular demand last year.

So, I hope you enjoy some snapshots.

Shores, cloudy skies & raindrops (first published in Q2 2022 Report)

For many years men’s fragrances dominated the ‘water’ inspired category. Aromatic fresh scents of peppermint and lavender mingled with oakmoss in the iconic Davidoff Cool Water, for the fresh out of the shower, fresh out of the sea scent; a summery theme that offered a lot of freshness plus watery and crispy accords highlighting the masculine woody base.

To a great degree that formula still exists – it’s a much loved category and fragrance in general is as much about evolution as revolution in trend terms.

The base of these ‘blue’ fragrances settles down to be more ambery and woody than fresh these days, and pine, patchouli, cardamom and herbal notes are making an appearance, alongside brighter mineral-solar accords and some more exotic twists – especially coconut – are refreshing the scene.

Green lilac leaves, lotus (a trend note to watch), salty florals and floral aquatics are the direction for new fragrances for women and in genderless scents such as the new Replica When the Rain Stops –  where rose essence and bergamot meet pine needle oil, capturing that ‘freshest of moments’ in nature.

Blue Horizon (published in Q3 2022 Report)

As 2022 moved on it was time for the next new influx of water inspiration…

Summer. The time for all things water inspired; a zen style of fragrances and bright essences, capturing zesty citrus notes floating on the breeze.

It was the thirst for exotic and far flung vacation adventures that inspired the fresh and salty sun kissed skin of the OG marine scents. The previous report helped to map and track aquatic notes that contrasts with amber accords and woody facets enhanced by a strong presence of mineral tones.

Now we see lively citrus’s – with mandarin and grapefruit, soft musks, more rain inspired notes, palm leaves and more woody drydowns – easing us into water notes as wellbeing scents.

Healing Waters (published in Q1 2023 Report)

And moving onto 2023…

Wellness is certainly a key word as a trend driver in scents – across all fragrance product sectors. The global lifestyle influence has exerted a growing influence on fragrance development, and this is showing up in a category that was well overdue for an overhaul; water inspired fragrances.

Looking back – it was 20/21 when we really started to see a new influx of ‘waters’ that were softer – with ingredients like lilac, marines that were fruit and coconut infused and generally a new approach to clean and fresh – especially as the pandemic years demanded scents that were infused with a ‘comfort’ approach.

Now, 2023 will bring the restorative power of water, its natural wild beauty and its fresh, pure energy to the centre stage.

Cali-cool blues – and the Pacific will be an inspiration, but linked intrinsically to wellbeing (think detox smoothies and surf time) and whilst we will see more mineral notes (and still salty notes), the detox and zen characteristics of the trend will bring ‘green’ waters with fig being a standout note, alongside green tea and a more ‘splash’ infused type of coconut.

Finishing up for now – we are already shaping up with some new water themed launches this summer – especially in niche – which will be out in the next Report.. but thanks for reading this far. Any questions about the Reports just email me at: 

I’m just off to check the Hugo Boss Pacific ‘evaporation’ issue. Shhhh.

All reports available for purchase online, with immediate download via the below link.

The Fine Fragrance Trend Stories Reports track trends in Men’s, Women’s and Genderless scents, exploring new influential macrotrends, breaking down key ingredients and themes with a look to how these concepts and fragrance notes will be evolving the fragrance scene of the future.

For a category deep dive into fine fragrances and perfumes, with new trend driving products, and future fragrance focused predictions, get in touch and ask for a bespoke project proposal.

Follow us on Instagram @trendaroma

Perfume dupes are in the spotlight

popular winter fragrances
Shop Reports

View our quarterly Fine Fragrance Trend Stories Reports

Perfume Dupes are in the spotlight

Roz Wicks
November 5th, 2022

UK consumers are looking for perfume dupes

At of the beginning of October 2022 the term ‘perfume dupes’ had increased 650% in the UK on Google Trends, and Aldi, Zara, Lidl and M&S ‘perfume dupes list 2022’ were all breakout search terms.

This is no big surprise. The UK is in the middle of a ‘cost of living crisis’ so more beauty and fragrance consumers than ever before are looking for cost savings on their ‘luxury’ items.

The perfume dupe market now

These days, tastes for fragrances have changed and lots of consumers are interested in dupes of Jo Malone (there are more Pomegranate Noir types on the market than possible I think), dupes of the latest Tom Ford (Lost Cherry is everywhere) and the runaway success of Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 (which, by the way, Arianna Grande’s bestselling scent is very reminiscent of) proves that we definitely have a more sophisticated consumer market than ever before.

However, the ‘classics’ and ‘new classics’ are still very much in demand. Chanel No5, for example, Coco Mademoiselle, plus everyone in the UK’s new favourite (it was the number 1 selling UK scent in 2021) YSL Black Opium, not to mention Marc Jacobs Daisy variants, Lancôme La Vie Est Belle types, Le Labo Santal 33 and many versions of Paco Rabanne’s Lady Million and various flankers.

Men’s scents are also being duped by the plenty too, although mainstream media articles do concentrate on woman’s scents more than men’s. Boss Bottled, Tom Ford Tuscan Leather, Bleu de Chanel, Creed Aventus, Dior Sauvage, Paco Rabanne One Million and Carolina Herrera Bad Boy are all in the dupe spotlight.

The current trends and future of perfume dupes

Over the last year NPD has been talking about ‘premiumization’ and noting that the trend for more potent versions; EDP’s, Parfums and intense versions, is causing an uptick in fragrance spending; “Sales of fragrance juices in the first half of 2022 with a retail price over £125 now equate to 11% of the mix of total fragrance sales compared to 7% of the mix of total fragrance sales in the first half of 2021″.

What this means for the dupe market is that versions of well liked ultra prestige, indie and niche fragrances will be in demand at a fraction of the original cost, so next year I’m fully expecting to see Phlur’s Missing Person everywhere!

Let’s talk scents

So what’s trending in fragrance dupes?

Well first up we have Zara. This brand’s perfumes have been around for a while now, but they’ve been getting more attention lately thanks to TikTok. In fact, videos about the perfumes in the range have 44.7 million views at the time of writing.

TikTokers have identified a similarity between Zara’s Oriental and Viktor & Rolfe’s iconic Flowerbomb perfume, Zara’s Amalfi Sunray and Tom Ford’s Neroli Portofino, Zara’s Red Vanilla and Lancôme’s La Vie Est Belle, Zara’s Rose Petal Drops and Parfums de Marly Delina, Zara’s Santal Glow and Byredo’s Mojave Ghost and Zara’s Soleil Decade and Estée Lauder’s  Bronze Goddess. The list most definitely goes on!

Then comes Marks and Spencer whose perfumes were a recently featured in The Sun newspaper.

According to fans of the scents; Midnight Blossom is a Black Opium type, Velvet Rose is a dupe of Chanel No5, Warm Neroli captures Paco Rabanne’s Lady Million, Pink Pepper is a Lancome’s La Vie Est Belle type while Soft Iris is the brands take on Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle, oh and if Le Labo’s Santal 33 is your scent signature you could give Marks and Spencer’s Apothecary Warmth a try (maybe that’s why it sold out last year)!

Men’s launches are also getting the dupe treatment and Aldi launched a £7 imitation of Creed’s £285 Aventus perfume in time for Father’s Day 2022.

This launch came a few months after the discount supermarket released Lacura Lady Pour Femme – a rumoured dupe of Carolina Herrera’s Good Girl, Lacura Atom; a dupe of Escentic Molecules Molecule 01 and Lacura Dark Blossom; YSL’s Black Opium.

So, in summary I think we can all agree the dupe market is looking in fairly good shape for the future, especially those scents feature heavily on TikTok and similar platforms. It will be interesting to see what 2023 brings…

Download our quarterly Fine Fragrance Trend Stories to find out more about the latest fragrance trends, concepts, and new ingredients, and get a glimpse into the future of fragrance.

For a category deep dive, with new trend driving products, and future fragrance focused predictions get in touch and ask for a bespoke project proposal.

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A TikTok favourite fragrance

#PerfumeTok is driving new fragrance sales and favourite scent choices

popular vanilla fragrances
Reports & Forecasts

#PerfumeTok is driving new fragrance sales and favourite scent choices

Roz Wicks
September 6th, 2022

The scoop about #PerfumeTok

Nobody could argue that the pandemic and COVID 19 fundamentally changed the way we think about smell. Not being able to smell was a sign of COVID and, even more disturbingly, the potential possibly of not regaining that key sense was enough to make people stop and think about how important smells and scents really are.

At the beginning of the pandemic every market analyst feared the worst for the fragrance sector and predictions were pretty grim. Consumers on the other hand decided something completely different and home fragrance, and fragrance in general started going crazy. Fine fragrances were affordable, and comforting luxuries, whilst candles and diffusers were used to lift spirits and denote living, relaxing and working from home spaces whilst we were all stuck indoors.

In 2021, perfume sales skyrocketed by as much as 45% according to reports from market research firm NPD Group, thanks to a boom in demand driven by the pandemic, despite the spike in perfume prices by 15% due to the supply chain crisis.

At the same time fragrance on TikTok REALLY started trending, and pretty soon, #PerfumeTok was born.

As we know hashtags are the easiest way to follow anything you may be interested in on any platform that uses them and when they ‘go big’ they do it with style – #perfumetiktok has 3.1 billion views, #perfumetok a very respectable 1.2 billion views and #fragrancetok has 220 million views and counting (as of me writing this in August 2022).

So what’s everyone loving? Well, mostly reviews, nosing around peoples collections and also dupes, dupes, dupes. TikTokkers are sharing the hottest news in fragrance, plus ‘where can I get copy of this fragrance for a tiny fraction of the original price’? So lets explore what’s ‘hot’ on the platform. 2 things which stand out to me? TikTokkers must not be eating (or are maybe sitting in the dark) because some of these perfume collections are Expensive (with a capital E) and also everyone loves a bit of comfort (amber, vanilla, marshmallow, warm woods and coffee are definitely trending). Anyhoo. Let’s go.

TikTok’s Favourite Scents

First up; The viral sensation: Maison Francis Kurkdijan Baccarat Rouge 540 (you can find a bit more about its popularity by clicking here), which sells for around £200 per bottle. Its an amber floral scent (that category is HUGE right now from Gen Z onwards) and includes top notes of Saffron and Jasmine, middle notes or Amberwood and Ambergris and base notes of Fir Resin and Cedar. The perfume that almost broke tiktok though was its ‘dupe’ – Zara Red Temptation (according to TikTokkers) which retails at £19.99.

tiktok fragrance trends

Next up we have Glossier You EDP – a genderless scent that is designed to smell like you: soft, warm, familiar. the brand says; “We designed everything about it to feel open ended, like it’ll grow with you no matter where you are in your personal evolution. This is not a finished product. It needs you”.

How to describe Glossier You? It’s a floral woody musk with pink pepper—the bright, sparkling, spicy top note that makes a good first impression. Then you get into the woodsy, slightly sweet heart of the scent that comes from ambrette seeds and warm, ambery ambrox (a synthetic molecule that’s comforting, sensual and palatable in equal measure). It’s balanced with iris, a white floral, for a creamy freshness.

genderless fragrances

Now lets swap to another much loved fragrance sensation – Kayali Vanilla 28 ($118). If you didn’t know, Kayali is the fragrance brainchild of makeup guru, Huda Kattan (beauty entrepreneur and huge social media personality) and her sister Mona. Kayali is an Arabic word that means ‘imagination’ and generally, the fragrances are inspired by the middle east. However, this one doesn’t have any of the oud notes that are perhaps more typical of that genre. This scent is an amber vanilla fragrance with notes of vanilla orchid, jasmine, brown sugar, tonka bean, amber, musk, amberwood and patchouli. TikTokers claim it’s sweet, easy to wear, and works perfectly for layering.

popular vanilla fragrances

Yves Saint Laurent’s Black Opium is one of the most popular modern fragrances around – in fact it was boosted to the UK’s No1 bestselling scent for women thanks to TikTok. Sales in 2021 were £19.4m and for a scent launched in 2014 that’s quite exceptional. The scent (which is based around coffee and has 24 flankers to date) is classified as an Amber Vanilla with notes of Pear, Pink Pepper, Orange Blossom, Coffee, Jasmine, Bitter Almond, Liquorice, Vanilla, Patchouli, Cedar and Cashmere Wood. 

ysl black opium

We all know that celebrity scents lost their sparkle and skin care is the thing now in celebrity land, but one scent that seems to have made it through is Ariana Grande’s Cloud. The perfume is constantly flying off the shelves, which is no surprise given the singer’s hold on Gen Z and its affordable price tag. It’s classified as a floral-fruity gourmand scent. At first spray, you get the lavender blossom, juicy pear, and bergamot, but creamier notes like crème de coconut, praline, and blonde woods soon creep in. This gourmand is an absolute crowd-pleaser that is affordable without smelling super synthetic – according to the TikTokkers.

ariana grande fragrances

YSL Libre was described by Allure magazine as a scent that ‘smells like the kind of woman whose finances are together’, and with a campaign that was fronted by singer, Dua Lipa – this is definitely a punchy, powerful fragrance. TikTok’s Pearl from Perfumed To Death describes it as ‘absolute elegance’ and the perfect perfume for the professional. This warm floral scent includes notes of lavender and orange blossom with a touch of vanilla extract. It’s easy to wear, refined, and still accessible — all the trappings of a solid signature scent and an easy must have in the TikTok world.

Dua Lipa for YSL Libre

Talking of sophistication TikTokkers are loving gender neutral Replica’s Jazz Club (and so do I – I’ve just spritzed it to remind me). The idea behind this scent is that with one spray you will be transported back to a dark, smoky, boozy New York jazz club in the 1920’s. It does just that. Rum, tobacco, and vanilla are brightened with the addition of primofiore lemon, neroli, sage and pink pepper in one of Maison Margiela’s most adored offerings from its Replica line.

replicas best selling fragrances

Tom Ford Lost Cherry (launched 2018) versus Zara Cherry Smoothie (launched 2022) made the rounds on TikTok filling up feeds as the majority of people declared it a good alternative to the uber pricey scent. Tom Ford’s version tops the chart among TikTok users. heady-meets-fruity fragrance with Top notes of Sour Cherry, Bitter Almond and Liquor, middle notes of Plum, Turkish Rose and Jasmine Sambac and base notes of Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Peru Balsam, Cinnamon, Benzoin, Sandalwood, Cloves, Cedar, Patchouli and Vetiver.

Zara dupes Tom Ford Lost Cherry

Gypsy Water (£127) is the smell of fresh soil, deep forests and campfires. It wants to evoke the dreams of a free and colourful lifestyle, surrounded by nature. It has top notes of Bergamot, Juniper & Pepper. Heart notes of Incense, Pine Needle & Orris. Base notes of Amber Sandalwood & Vanilla. Created to be a homage to Romany life, this unisex cult fragrance combines outdoorsy notes of pine and sandalwood as well as subtle moments of citrus to cut through any heaviness. It smells just as fresh and relevant now as it did when it launched 14 years ago. 

a cult favourite fragrance

Now who the heck doesn’t want to smell like Rihanna. Apparently no-one on TikTok. Kilian Love, Don’t Be Shy Eau de Parfum (£185+) is widely known as one of Rihanna’s favourite fragrances. The scent is described as a sticky-sweet floral gourmand that marries neroli and orange blossom with a sugary marshmallow accord. If it’s good enough for Rih/RiRi, it’s good enough for us all as per #perfumetok rules.

Rihannas favourite fragrance

Delina is one of Parfums de Marly’s best sellers. This unapologetic floral brings together bergamot essence, rhubarb, and lychee with Turkish rose, peony, cashmerean, and musk. It’s super-refined but still playful and slightly mysterious. She’s pricey at around £205 but TikTokkers say if you like florals (especially for the peony fans out there), you will no doubt fall in love with this. 

TikTok favourite fragrance

Last, but not least, just in case you thought TikTokkers only had a sweet tooth/nose, we get a blast of tropical fruit that is on every good #perfumetokkers collection shelf; Vilhelm Parfumerie Mango Skin Eau de Parfum. The scent launched in 2018 with notes of Mango, Orange and Violet, Frangipani, Mango Blossom, Ylang-Ylang, Black Currant, Musk, Red wine and Civet.

A TikTok favourite fragrance

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