Fine Fragrance Trend Reports

As a fragrance marketer and fragrance trend forecaster I always get excited by new launches, new fragrance stories and fragrance creativity. I love hearing the inspirations behind collections and reading words crafted to transport you to the scent before you’ve even smelt it. 

And that’s exactly what this new brand did when I read about it’s launch. The Future Society has focused on a very unique muse and story: extinct flowers.

The perfume brand was developed by leading Boston-based beauty biotech firm Arcaea, founded by MIT-trained scientist Jasmina Aganovic.

After sequencing the DNA of extinct flower samples from Harvard Herbarium, the brand collaborated with renowned perfumers (including Jérome Epinette: Robertet, Daniela Andrier: Givaudan and Olivia Jan: Givaudan) to bring these lost blooms new life– creating singular scents that can only be made through biology.

It was the DNA sequencing technology that made it possible to understand what scent molecules these flowers may have once produced. This data was then shared with the brands perfumers, who used their knowledge of aromachemicals and botany to create six fragrances for the Future Society’s Scent Surrection Collection.

Now, not being a trained scientist, botanist or biologist I have no idea how this actually works, (I’ve watched every Jurassic Park movie – they didn’t cover this), but for me its the stories and the ethos behind the scents that I love. It’s a new way to look back and look forward at the same time, or as the brand puts it; “It is a combination of art and science, enabling consumers to experience the stories of these flowers once thought lost to time”.

Future Society Scent Surrection Collection: 

Grassland Opera

We used powerful biotechnology to sequence a DNA sample of Orbexilum stipulatum, a flowering plant that once flourished on Rock Island in the Falls of the Ohio but was last observed in 1881. The flower is thought to have collapsed when the buffalo ceased migrating across the planes.

Its fragrance is an open composition that grounds our brazen consciousness.

THE WORLD THIS SCENT CREATES

Its colour is a flash of emerald glittering through a crack in the ground.
Its look is a satin bomber jacket and shorts, patterned in a bold botanical.
Its mood is an eclectic mystique.

TOP NOTES: Bergamot, Clary Sage, Ginger, Fig Leaves
HEART NOTES: Ylang Ylang, Jasmine, Mimosa
BASE NOTES: Sandalwood, Patchouli, Guaiacwood, Akigalawood, Ambrofix

Floating Forest

We combined the intelligence of DNA sequencing and the imagination of the world’s best perfumers to give new life to the extinct Shorea cuspidata, a towering tree endemic to Borneo whose branches once grazed the sky at up to 45 meters. Last spotted in the wild in 1998, logging activities in its forest habitat forever took its descendants from the earth.

The fragrance is a sanctuary of stillness in our shifting world.

THE WORLD THIS SCENT CREATES

Its colour is a green speckled stone—worn round and edged smooth.
Its look is a jacquard cocoon top, sleeves billowing in the breeze.
Its mood is a moment of meditative release.

TOP NOTES: Black Pepper, Bergamot
HEART NOTES: Freesia, Waterlilly, Rose Absolute
BASE NOTES: Cedarwood, Salted Musk, Wet Stones, Papyrus, Driftwood

Haunted Rose

We used powerful biotechnology to sequence a DNA sample of Macrostylis villosa subspecies 1 + 2, a small aromatic shrub with needle-like leaves that once produced clusters of white flowers for long periods of the year throughout South Africa. Its population fragmented in 1960 due to the effects of urbanization on the shrub’s native regions.

The fragrance is an unwavering spirit that illuminates our tomorrow.

THE WORLD THIS SCENT CREATES

Its color is a petal-flushed cheek—sweetened with anticipation.
Its look is a silk slip dress, embellished with feathers and a chiffon hem.
It’s mood is an enthralled tranquillity.

TOP NOTES: Black Pepper, Saffron
HEART NOTES: Rose Absolute, Passionfruit
BASE NOTES: Ambroxan, Sandalwood

Solar Canopy

We used powerful biotechnology to sequence a DNA sample of Hibiscadelphus wilderianus, a Hawaiian endemic species that once covered the Southern Slope of Haleakala but was last observed in 1912. The tree that produced this flower vanished due to deforestation.

The fragrance is a rhythmic release of kinetic energy, spiralling us infinitely.

THE WORLD THIS SCENT CREATES

Its colour is a gleam of fuchsia shooting across a hot orange sky.
Its look is a gradient-print macrame dress, fringe swishing loose.
Its mood is the heartbeat of euphoria.

TOP NOTES: Bergamot, Red Currant, Pink Pepper
HEART NOTES: Turkish Rose, Lychee, Pistachio, Magnolia
BASE NOTES: Vetiver, Ambroxan, Pink Sugar

Reclaimed Flame

We used powerful biotechnology to sequence a DNA sample of Leucadendron grandiflorum, a species that once flowered on the Western Cape of South Africa. This species has not been spotted since 1960, as frequent wildfires spurred on by land development.

The fragrance is a beat within our hearts that keeps us forever outspoken.

THE WORLD THIS SCENT CREATES

Its color is a flicker of gold glimpsed as the sun crackles the horizon.
Its look is a high-shine iridescent skirt, worn with flat matte sandals.
Its mood is the redefinement of rules.

TOP NOTES: Bergamot, Grapefruit
HEART NOTES: Geranium, Curcuma, Eucalyptus
BASE NOTES: Armoise, Chamomile

Invisible Woods

We used powerful biotechnology to sequence a DNA sample of Wendlandia angustifolia, a small flowering tree that once thrived in India’s Western Ghats Mountain Range. Due to perpetual drought that overtook the region, its delicate white bloom had not been recorded since 1917.

The fragrance is a tangled wind that whips us into the known unknown.

THE WORLD THIS SCENT CREATES

Its color is an inky purple night, brushstroked by silver clouds.
Its look is a wool bustier layered over a mesh turtleneck.
Its mood is captivated by contrasts.

TOP NOTES: Grapefruit, Eucalyptus, Ginger
HEART NOTES: Rose Absolute, Chamomile
BASE NOTES: Iris, Akigalawood

The Fine Fragrance Trend Stories Reports track trends in Men’s, Women’s and Genderless scents, exploring new influential macrotrends, breaking down key ingredients and themes with a look to how these concepts and fragrance notes will be evolving the fragrance scene of the future.

For a category deep dive into fine fragrances and perfumes, with new trend driving products, and future fragrance focused predictions, get in touch and ask for a bespoke project proposal.

Fine Fragrance Trend Forecasts

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Fine Fragrance Trends 2023

Fragrances inspired by the oceans, rivers, lakes and seas are nothing new, (Davidoff Cool Water anyone), but we have started seeing a new generation of water inspired scents appear on the fragrance scene, and this category is going from one of my least favourite to a recent ‘Boots moment’ where I ‘may’ have slightly overused a tester of the new Hugo Boss Pacific.

Sorry. Not sorry.

I bought a bottle too. BF was pleased. But he can’t understand how it’s going down so quickly though as it’s on his side of the perfume door in the fridge (yes perfumes are in the fridge in my house. IYKYK). I can’t explain the liquid loss. Probably evaporation. 

But.. back to the trends and the new launches. I cheated for this article and instead of writing a long piece, I thought I would share some excerpts from my quarterly Fine Fragrance Trends Reports as these have mapped the evolution of the category since their launch by popular demand last year.

So, I hope you enjoy some snapshots.

Shores, cloudy skies & raindrops (first published in Q2 2022 Report)

For many years men’s fragrances dominated the ‘water’ inspired category. Aromatic fresh scents of peppermint and lavender mingled with oakmoss in the iconic Davidoff Cool Water, for the fresh out of the shower, fresh out of the sea scent; a summery theme that offered a lot of freshness plus watery and crispy accords highlighting the masculine woody base.

To a great degree that formula still exists – it’s a much loved category and fragrance in general is as much about evolution as revolution in trend terms.

The base of these ‘blue’ fragrances settles down to be more ambery and woody than fresh these days, and pine, patchouli, cardamom and herbal notes are making an appearance, alongside brighter mineral-solar accords and some more exotic twists – especially coconut – are refreshing the scene.

Green lilac leaves, lotus (a trend note to watch), salty florals and floral aquatics are the direction for new fragrances for women and in genderless scents such as the new Replica When the Rain Stops –  where rose essence and bergamot meet pine needle oil, capturing that ‘freshest of moments’ in nature.

Blue Horizon (published in Q3 2022 Report)

As 2022 moved on it was time for the next new influx of water inspiration…

Summer. The time for all things water inspired; a zen style of fragrances and bright essences, capturing zesty citrus notes floating on the breeze.

It was the thirst for exotic and far flung vacation adventures that inspired the fresh and salty sun kissed skin of the OG marine scents. The previous report helped to map and track aquatic notes that contrasts with amber accords and woody facets enhanced by a strong presence of mineral tones.

Now we see lively citrus’s – with mandarin and grapefruit, soft musks, more rain inspired notes, palm leaves and more woody drydowns – easing us into water notes as wellbeing scents.

Healing Waters (published in Q1 2023 Report)

And moving onto 2023…

Wellness is certainly a key word as a trend driver in scents – across all fragrance product sectors. The global lifestyle influence has exerted a growing influence on fragrance development, and this is showing up in a category that was well overdue for an overhaul; water inspired fragrances.

Looking back – it was 20/21 when we really started to see a new influx of ‘waters’ that were softer – with ingredients like lilac, marines that were fruit and coconut infused and generally a new approach to clean and fresh – especially as the pandemic years demanded scents that were infused with a ‘comfort’ approach.

Now, 2023 will bring the restorative power of water, its natural wild beauty and its fresh, pure energy to the centre stage.

Cali-cool blues – and the Pacific will be an inspiration, but linked intrinsically to wellbeing (think detox smoothies and surf time) and whilst we will see more mineral notes (and still salty notes), the detox and zen characteristics of the trend will bring ‘green’ waters with fig being a standout note, alongside green tea and a more ‘splash’ infused type of coconut.

Finishing up for now – we are already shaping up with some new water themed launches this summer – especially in niche – which will be out in the next Report.. but thanks for reading this far. Any questions about the Reports just email me at: rozwicks@trendaroma.com 

I’m just off to check the Hugo Boss Pacific ‘evaporation’ issue. Shhhh.

All reports available for purchase online, with immediate download via the below link.

The Fine Fragrance Trend Stories Reports track trends in Men’s, Women’s and Genderless scents, exploring new influential macrotrends, breaking down key ingredients and themes with a look to how these concepts and fragrance notes will be evolving the fragrance scene of the future.

For a category deep dive into fine fragrances and perfumes, with new trend driving products, and future fragrance focused predictions, get in touch and ask for a bespoke project proposal.

Fine Fragrance Trend Forecasts

Follow us on Instagram @trendaroma

Shop Reports

Perfume Dupes are in the spotlight

Roz Wicks
November 5th, 2022

UK consumers are looking for perfume dupes

At of the beginning of October 2022 the term ‘perfume dupes’ had increased 650% in the UK on Google Trends, and Aldi, Zara, Lidl and M&S ‘perfume dupes list 2022’ were all breakout search terms.

This is no big surprise. The UK is in the middle of a ‘cost of living crisis’ so more beauty and fragrance consumers than ever before are looking for cost savings on their ‘luxury’ items.

The perfume dupe market now

These days, tastes for fragrances have changed and lots of consumers are interested in dupes of Jo Malone (there are more Pomegranate Noir types on the market than possible I think), dupes of the latest Tom Ford (Lost Cherry is everywhere) and the runaway success of Maison Francis Kurkdjian Baccarat Rouge 540 (which, by the way, Arianna Grande’s bestselling scent is very reminiscent of) proves that we definitely have a more sophisticated consumer market than ever before.

However, the ‘classics’ and ‘new classics’ are still very much in demand. Chanel No5, for example, Coco Mademoiselle, plus everyone in the UK’s new favourite (it was the number 1 selling UK scent in 2021) YSL Black Opium, not to mention Marc Jacobs Daisy variants, Lancôme La Vie Est Belle types, Le Labo Santal 33 and many versions of Paco Rabanne’s Lady Million and various flankers.

Men’s scents are also being duped by the plenty too, although mainstream media articles do concentrate on woman’s scents more than men’s. Boss Bottled, Tom Ford Tuscan Leather, Bleu de Chanel, Creed Aventus, Dior Sauvage, Paco Rabanne One Million and Carolina Herrera Bad Boy are all in the dupe spotlight.

The current trends and future of perfume dupes

Over the last year NPD has been talking about ‘premiumization’ and noting that the trend for more potent versions; EDP’s, Parfums and intense versions, is causing an uptick in fragrance spending; “Sales of fragrance juices in the first half of 2022 with a retail price over £125 now equate to 11% of the mix of total fragrance sales compared to 7% of the mix of total fragrance sales in the first half of 2021″.

What this means for the dupe market is that versions of well liked ultra prestige, indie and niche fragrances will be in demand at a fraction of the original cost, so next year I’m fully expecting to see Phlur’s Missing Person everywhere!

Let’s talk scents

So what’s trending in fragrance dupes?

Well first up we have Zara. This brand’s perfumes have been around for a while now, but they’ve been getting more attention lately thanks to TikTok. In fact, videos about the perfumes in the range have 44.7 million views at the time of writing.

TikTokers have identified a similarity between Zara’s Oriental and Viktor & Rolfe’s iconic Flowerbomb perfume, Zara’s Amalfi Sunray and Tom Ford’s Neroli Portofino, Zara’s Red Vanilla and Lancôme’s La Vie Est Belle, Zara’s Rose Petal Drops and Parfums de Marly Delina, Zara’s Santal Glow and Byredo’s Mojave Ghost and Zara’s Soleil Decade and Estée Lauder’s  Bronze Goddess. The list most definitely goes on!

Then comes Marks and Spencer whose perfumes were a recently featured in The Sun newspaper.

According to fans of the scents; Midnight Blossom is a Black Opium type, Velvet Rose is a dupe of Chanel No5, Warm Neroli captures Paco Rabanne’s Lady Million, Pink Pepper is a Lancome’s La Vie Est Belle type while Soft Iris is the brands take on Chanel’s Coco Mademoiselle, oh and if Le Labo’s Santal 33 is your scent signature you could give Marks and Spencer’s Apothecary Warmth a try (maybe that’s why it sold out last year)!

Men’s launches are also getting the dupe treatment and Aldi launched a £7 imitation of Creed’s £285 Aventus perfume in time for Father’s Day 2022.

This launch came a few months after the discount supermarket released Lacura Lady Pour Femme – a rumoured dupe of Carolina Herrera’s Good Girl, Lacura Atom; a dupe of Escentic Molecules Molecule 01 and Lacura Dark Blossom; YSL’s Black Opium.

So, in summary I think we can all agree the dupe market is looking in fairly good shape for the future, especially those scents feature heavily on TikTok and similar platforms. It will be interesting to see what 2023 brings…

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Download our quarterly Fine Fragrance Trend Stories to find out more about the latest fragrance trends, concepts, and new ingredients, and get a glimpse into the future of fragrance.

For a category deep dive, with new trend driving products, and future fragrance focused predictions get in touch and ask for a bespoke project proposal.

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