Category Archives: Fine Fragrance

The ‘Oriental’ category is being replaced by ‘Ambery’ on the fragrance wheel

Fragrance vocabulary is becoming more inclusive

From mid- July 2021, Michael Edwards have announced that changes will be made change to their Fragrance Wheel and some of their Fragrances of The World family names. According to the press release (available on the British Society of Perfumers website) this core change comes after years of consultations with oil houses, perfumers, brands, bloggers and the Fragrance Foundation.

Fragrances of the World is the largest independent guide to fragrance classification. First published in 1984 by Michael Edwards the guide was originally named The Fragrance Manual before becoming Fragrances of the World in 2000. It has since been printed annually in a bilingual English-French edition. An online companion, the Fragrances of the World database, was launched in 2004 and, as of 2015, profiles over 17,000 perfumes, updated weekly.

The current Fragrance Wheel from Michael Edwards, which is widely used as an industry standard

The reason for the change? A more inclusive vocabulary as part of the company’s Time for Change Campaign.

The Fragrance Wheel will doing away with the outdated fragrance term “oriental” and replace it with the term “ambery.” In a press release, Edwards stated, “In the world of fragrance, there is a growing sentiment that the word [oriental] is outdated and derogatory.”

He continued, “While many might recall the oriental sensuality evoked by such fragrances as Opium and Shalimar, younger people often feel no such connection to the description Oriental.” Edwards concluded, “Within the context of perfumery, the term Oriental was never intended to be offensive, but perceptions change.”

The new Fragrance Wheel will be used from mid-July 2021

The history behind the category term

To better understand the use of the word we need to understand that the term ‘oriental’ in the perfume world refers to a historic fragrance family classification that encompassed notes like amber, sandalwood, coumarin, orris, vanilla, jasmine, orchid, orange blossom and gum resins. Considering that the word ‘Oriental’ is used as a ‘catch-all’ to describe fragrances with notes of sandalwood, patchouli, incense, and the others listed above, it’s not so easy to find a logical substitute. However, “spicy” and “resinous” are two starting points for the major fragrance houses that will looking at their own fragrance genealogies.

There has been a lot of discussion, particularly in the US and the UK where Michael Edwards work is used extensively, about the term Oriental being outdated, and in some contexts, offensive. The word was accompanied by stereotypes that engendered fear, which re-emerged strongly in the United States amid the COVID-19 pandemic, manifesting in violent hate crimes against those of Asian descent. In 2016 Barack Obama enacted legislation banning the word in government documents as a description for people of Asian heritage, in favour of “Asian American.”

Driving change in the fragrance industry

This shift in the fragrance industry is part of the larger discussion we touched on above, which was highlighted in May 2021 by Harper’s Bazaar, where the historical ‘Eurocentric’ view of the Oriental category was discussed by industry insiders.

“Orient comes from a word meaning ‘East,’” says Tania Sanchez, co-author of Perfumes: The A-Z Guide. “The question is, East of where? In this case, France, where the perfume genre was born. This vague, ever exoticized, mysterious Orient includes the Persian Iran of the carpets, the Taj Mahal of Shalimar, and what is sometimes called the Far East,” she says. “It’s far from France, at least. China and Iran have little in common except their East-ness from Europe. There seems no good reason to stick with the term, when we could use clear, descriptive language instead”.

One industry organisation taking a stand is The Fragrance Foundation, the leader in education in the field.
Linda Levy, the group’s president, describes the term as “outdated and offensive,” adding that “other terminology should definitely be applied instead.” Every brand, fragrance house, and retailer has the freedom to determine its own language. So the term Oriental is not formal or official, she says.

One thing is official though – now the dialogue has been opened, discussions will start to take place. It will be interesting to see where fragrance houses, fragrance manufacturers, retailers and brands go with their own wheels/maps and genealogies as 2021 progresses.

Iconic fragrance Chanel No.5 celebrates 100 years

If the past 100 years have been any indication, Chanel No. 5 is much more than a fragrance. Created in 1921 (and launched on the 5th May 1921) by Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel and French perfumer Ernest Beaux, the scent has reached beyond megatrend status, working its way into history from movies to art to museums, whilst being worn by Hollywood’s biggest stars, from Marilyn Monroe to Chanel No. 5 ambassador Marion Cotillard.

Marilyn Monroe famously said; a few drops of Chanel N°5 was all she wore to bed whilst Andy Warhol’s made silkscreens of the bottle. Even when Paris was liberated, there were endless lines of American soldiers waiting to get the perfume to bring home to their wives.

To celebrate the fragrance’s 100th anniversary, the French fashion house is exploring its storied history in a new episode of Inside Chanel. In this episode, viewers will see Chanel No. 5 like they’ve never seen it before, including the story of its inception, the inspiration behind its silhouette and design, the special meaning behind number five, its significant role in World War II, and its lasting impression on popular culture and modern perfumery.

Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel

With a healthy disregard for social etiquette and a retinue of friends and admirers among the city’s “racy” women, couturier Coco Chanel traversed the boundaries between lady and mistress and by the beginning of the twenties Chanel was already a phenomenon in French fashion circles.

She had come to Paris as the mistress of the textile baron Etienne Balsan in 1909 and set up a millinery boutique under Balsan’s apartment. By 1921, she had a series of successful boutiques in Paris, Deauville and Biarritz, she owned a villa in the south of France and drove around in her own blue Rolls Royce.

Now she wanted to create a scent that could describe the new, modern woman she epitomised.

But Chanel’s background was troubled and complex, and it was something that seeped into her trademark fragrance.

Picture of a younger Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel

The beginnings of the classic scent

Chanel was the daughter of a market-stall holder and a laundry woman in rural France, but when her mother died she was sent to a Cistercian convent at Aubazine where she spent her teenage years.

The smell of soap and freshly scrubbed skin was something that stuck with her for years after. She was fastidiously clean and later when she worked among the mistresses of the rich she complained about the way they smelled, stinking of musk and body odour.

When she decided to commission a perfume for her best clients – a new trend among fashion houses – it was important that it imbue this freshness. But she had trouble finding a perfumer who could achieve this; creating a fresh fragrance that would last, as in those days a fresh and charming scent was composed of lemon, bergamot and orange – a very pretty concoction but one that didn’t last on the skin.

At the time, chemists had already isolated chemicals called aldehydes which could artificially create, amongst other characteristics, that ‘soapy’ smell. However they were extraordinarily powerful, so perfumers were hesitant to use them.

During the late summer of 1920 Chanel went on holiday on the Cote d’Azur with her lover the Grand Duke Dimtri Pavlovich.

There she learned of a perfumer, a sophisticated and well-read character called Ernest Beaux who had worked for the Russian royal family and lived close by in Grasse, the centre of the perfume industry. Beaux; a curious and daring craftsman took up Chanel’s challenge.

A mistake in the lab?

It took him several months to perfect a new fragrance but eventually he came up with 10 samples and presented them to Chanel.

They were numbered one to five and 20 to 24. She picked number five. Its numerical name and minimalist bottle made it identifiable—and relatable—to women across the globe.

It is rumoured that the exact concoction for ‘sample 5’ was actually the result of a laboratory mistake. Beaux’s assistant had added a dose of aldehyde in a quantity never used before, but for Chanel is was a balance and an expressions of both her childhood in a convent and then her luxurious life as a mistress.

The richness of the raw materials

Chanel’s taste for the most exquisite things in life is reflected in the vast number of properties used to make the fragrance. It takes one ton of flowers to produce one and half kilograms of the absolute. At the heart of N°5 is ylang-ylang harvested from Madagascar and Mayotte, May rose, a bloom that only flowers for three weeks a year, and jasmine from Grasse—the most luxurious raw ingredient in the world.

The launch of the iconic scent

Chanel said of No.5, “It was what I was waiting for. A perfume like nothing else. A woman’s perfume, with the scent of a woman.” The scent, imbued with jasmine, rose, sandalwood and vanilla, was an instant success.

To launch the perfume Coco Chanel invited Beaux and friends to a popular upmarket restaurant on the Riviera to celebrate and decided to spray the perfume around the table. Each woman that passed stopped and asked what the fragrance was and where it came from.

That was the first moment that anybody in the public smelled Chanel No 5 and it literally stopped them in their tracks.

For Chanel this was the moment that confirmed for her that it was going to be a revolutionary perfume. That moment consumers were smelling something they had never smelled before, it was an ‘intervention’ in the history of perfume.

“From the start, No. 5 threw habits and conventions to the wind,” Chanel said in a press release. “At the beginning of the 1920s, Gabrielle Chanel had already changed people’s views on fashion by suggesting a new allure. Her first perfume is consistent with her pioneering designs, simple yet well thought through. Revolutionary in its composition, No. 5 is also the first perfume imagined by a woman for women.”

Happy 100 years Chanel No.5!

The most ‘Googled’ Fine Fragrances of 2020

Another year is coming to an end and it is no secret that the luxury fragrance industry took a hit in 2020, with the closure of non-essential stores preventing consumers from trialling their new favourite scent. The perfume sector is bouncing back however following a number of initiatives including discovery sets, by post sampling, subscription box services and online quizzes.

Market researcher The NPD Group reported that, compared to 2019, the sales of luxury edps and edts improved from a 67% loss to a decline of 13% since the reopening of non-essential retail stores. With a growth of 32% post-lockdown, fragrance gift sets are performing particularly well.

Meanwhile, online retailer Fragrance Direct has analysed consumer Google search results over the past 12 months, from more than 100 countries and 10,000 fragrances, in a bid to reveal which products are the most desired around the world.

In the top spot, across both male and female marketed products, was Estée by Estée Lauder with more than 962,000 searches worldwide (here at TrendAroma we are going to assume they mean the 2015 version for women and not the 1968 version.. but for men is there a newer one since 1985 – there must be, as we are assuming a few ‘regs’ have updated since then!).

In second, third and fourth place were Versace’s Eros Pour Femme, Carolina Herrera’s Good Girl and Marc Jacobs’ Daisy. The most popular male marketed product did not arrive until fifth on the list with Cool Water by Davidoff earning 134,000 searches. The aftershave made the top five in 43 countries and proved to be particularly popular in India, Pakistan, and Thailand.

Fragrances by Lancôme made two appearances in the female fragrance list, with Idôle and La Vie Est Belle both popular with women worldwide.

In the UK, Estée Lauder claimed the top spot again, with Marc Jacobs’ Daisy in second place with more than 40,500 searches. Diesel’s Only The Brave also mades the top 10, and was the most popular choice with British men.

We were quite surprised not to see Gucci Bloom, YSL Black Opium, Paco Rabanne One Million or Dior Sauvage in the lists below, or indeed Dior J’adore for women as they have all been trending this year , with ‘known’ scents being so popular – it’s 2020 after all, but we still spy a lot of the ‘more familiar’ rather than the brand new in these lists so people are still seeking comfort in their scents – a trend which looks set to continue into 2021.

Top 10 fragrances worldwide by Google searches

  1. Estée Lauder, Estée – 962,710
  2. Versace, Eros Pour Femme – 281,270
  3. Carolina Herrera, Good Girl – 186,180
  4. Marc Jacobs, Daisy – 168,240
  5. Davidoff, Cool Water – 134,990
  6. Dior, Homme – 123,070
  7. YSL, Libre – 115,620
  8. Lancôme, Idôle – 105,280
  9. Narciso Rodriguez, For Her – 104,430
  10. Calvin Klein, Euphoria – 103,930

Top 10 female fragrances worldwide by Google searches

  1. Estée Lauder, Estée
  2. Versace, Eros Pour Femme
  3. Carolina Herrera, Good Girl
  4. Marc Jacobs, Daisy
  5. YSL, Libre
  6. Lancôme, Idôle
  7. Narciso Rodriguez, For Her
  8. Calvin Klein, Euphoria
  9. Lancôme, La Vie est Belle
  10. Gucci, Bamboo

Top 10 male fragrances worldwide by Google searches

  1. Davidoff, Cool Water
  2. Dior, Homme
  3. Montblanc, Legend
  4. Joop, Homme
  5. Versace, Pour Homme
  6. Jean Paul Gaultier, Le Male
  7. Givenchy, Gentleman
  8. Diesel, Only The Brave
  9. Hugo Boss, Bottled
  10. Prada, L’Homme

Top UK fragrances by Google searches

  1. Estée Lauder, Estée – 110,000
  2. Marc Jacobs, Daisy – 40,500
  3. Versace, Eros Pour Femme- 22,200
  4. Carolina Herrera, Good Girl – 18,100
  5. Gucci, Bamboo – 18,100
  6. Diesel, Only The Brave -14,800
  7. Gucci, Rush – 14,800
  8. Jean Paul Gaultier, Le Male -14,800
  9. Jimmy Choo, Flash – 14,800

Source: Cosmetics Business

Sustainable and natural perfumes from Sephora

Natural perfumes by Sephora

The fabulous new Do Not Drink collection of perfumes where 87% of the materials are from natural origin – even the alcohol is from beetroot!

Natural perfumes by Sephora

Industry press is full of new launches and new innovations referencing clean and sustainable beauty. Sephora has upped its game in the US market by stocking more and more brands that fit in with its clean beauty criteria.

Now they are taking this a step further, with the new Do Not Drink collection from Sephora France, which is ticking all the trend boxes. I’ve nipped over to the website and grabbed the key points of the range to summarise below.

Ingredient led scents that are affordable. A new vision of perfumery with creative fragrances, surprising olfactory encounters and 87% of ingredients of natural origin. For perfumes so good that we almost want to drink them! No fuss or overly complex chords. We make your life easier by offering you delicious eau de parfum at always affordable prices.

Natural ingredients with provenance. All our perfumes contain raw materials of natural origin selected from noble essences: vanilla from Madagascar, jasmine from India, tangerine from Italy to name a few.

They have also explained their use of synthetic options; We have also chosen to use synthetic ingredients in our perfumes to offer you an even more creative olfactory diversity. Synthetic ingredients allow, in fact, to open new olfactory paths. Without them, no taste notes, for example! They also make it possible to reproduce fragrances from nature for which there is no extraction process to obtain the note.

Clarity on formula. In our perfumes, we have chosen to put only the essential and nothing more: Alcohol of vegetable origin from beetroot, Perfume concentrate. Some water. A system that protects perfumes from oxidation and that’s it!

Recyclable packaging. The cardboard comes from sustainably managed forests. The case is printed with vegetable-based inks and bottle and the case are fully recyclable.

Made in the perfume capital of the world. Behind each of the notes in the range hide French perfumers recognised for their creativity.

Natural perfumes from Sephora

Sephora DO NOT DRINK Collection Scent Descriptions

Eau Acidulée (Cassis + Passion) The green freshness of the blackcurrant bud is mixed with the juicy and tangy flesh of the passion fruit.There is an air of exoticism in this joyful and vitamin-packed fragrance

Eau Aromatique (Sage + Tonka) Crunchy sage fuses with a sultry and searing tonka bean to create a daring hot-cold. Dynamic, this fragrance with woody and aromatic flavors plunges us into the heart of a wild nature full of vitality.

Eau Corsée (Iris + Mocha) The iris, delicate and powdery, is electrified by a pure and freshly roasted coffee. Overdose of character for this intense and irresistible floral “shot”.

Eau Épicée (Jasmine + Pink Berries) Jasmine flower, freshly harvested at sunrise, is infused with an explosion of colorful spices.T his delicious, resolutely modern fragrance transports us to the heart of a flower garden

Eau Rafraîchissante (Mandarine + Matcha) When the fresh and juicy mandarin from Italy meets the aromatic green notes of the matcha tea leaf. An infusion of tangy notes for a “sparkling” fragrance.

Eau Sucrée Salée (Vanille + Fleur de Sel) Madagascar vanilla, intense and suave, is crystallized in a splash of salt water. This solar and completely addictive fragrance takes us on a journey with our feet in the sand!

Marie Claire Perfume Awards 2020

We know that fine fragrance is likely to take a hit this year. The global pandemic means that luxury sectors, like perfumes, are probably going to decline. Consumers won’t have the money or literally can’t get to the shops to try new launches (perhaps the perfect time to bring back magazine testers in a big way??). The NPD group are predicting double digit decline at around 58% for the luxury and prestige sectors. 

However, there is more awareness now than ever from consumers about the power of scent. The ability to provide comfort and familiarity, to enhance mood in a positive way and to promote self care. Without the ability to go out and smell fragrances themselves, consumers will be relying even more on articles from beauty magazines and industry awards than ever before so, as part of my trend tracking across the consumer market here’s what won recently at Marie Claire. 

According to the magazine; Each year, we award our prizes to the best perfume creations; from blending to the bottle. The twenty-eight international editions of Marie Claire deliver their winners to you.

Best female perfume:Gucci Memoire

It is a singular and non-gendered fragrance which wins this prize for the best female perfume. Alessandro Michele, creative director of Gucci, tasked master perfumer Alberto Morillas to build a perfume around Roman chamomile

The scent is also infused with honeyed jasmine petals and coated with a cloud of musk, cedar and sandalwood. On the skin, it is soft, delightful and subtle. The bottle is inspired by a vintage model of the house, in fluted glass, tinted with green.

Prize for audacity: Idole by Lancôme

Designed by three female perfumers; Shyamala Maisondieu, Nadège Le Garlantezec and Adriana Medina, with a new ‘glow’ accord.

Idôle’s ultra-slim bottle appears to fuse with the hand so that the boundary between skin and fragrance vanishes. The 15 mm thick bottle – the thinnest on the market, designed by Chafik Gasmi – looks like a smartphone, but is elegantly dressed in a gold rim and cap. 

Fragrance notes:

Powerful and beautiful. With its alluring scent and sharp thorns, the rose symbolises the complexity of femininity. The perfect marriage of beauty and strength, a sustainably sourced Rose Accord can be found in the heart of Idôle.

Pure and sensual. Oil of Jasmine Absolutes acts as a gentle yet generous accompaniment to Idôle’s heart. Radiant and sensual, it is an invitation to draw closer.

Delicate and long-lasting. An abundance of radiant petals blended with musks forms a sophisticated Clean Chypre Accord, which recalls the airy freshness of just-washed linens. Despite its breezy subtlety, the note lingers on the skin to create a lasting enveloping sensation of reassurance.

Structured like a kaleidoscope, Idôle’s fragrant accords radiate from its heart. Simply by wearing Idôle a distinctive scent identity is created. Harnessing the essence of the woman wearing it, Idôle becomes a declaration of her intention to be herself. To become her own Idôle.

Prize for the best female bottle: Libre by Yves Saint Laurent

Everything in this object reflects elegance and tension between masculine and feminine. The graphic glass object interpreted by designer Suzanne Dalton is transcended by the house’s famous gold Cassandre, as if sealed and lying at right angles to the bottle. A golden chain wrapped around the neck contrasts with the massive black cap.

This bottle perfectly echoes the scent orchestrated by Anne Flipo and Carlos Benaïm: a virile but fresh lavender, reinvented and feminized with an absolute of sweet orange blossom then bewitched by vanilla and a hint of ambergris. 

Prize for the best male perfume: K by Dolce Gabbana

Inspired by the king’s playing card, this fragrance deliciously transports you to Tuscany. Imagined by Daphné Bugey and Nathalie Lorson, it soars on zest of blood orange and Sicilian lemon, glazed with juniper berry, warms gently thanks to an ultra-refined heart composed of geranium, lavender and clary sage and finally ignites thanks to the pepper, woods and base blend of vetiver, cedar and patchouli.

France Women’s Prize: Parisian Musc de Matière Première

Coming from a line of perfumers for seven generations, authors of remarkable fragrances – from Narciso Eau de Parfum Poudrée to Aurélien by Carine Roitfeld – and owner of his own field of centifolia roses, Aurélien Guichard launched his own fragrance line this year, soberly called Matière First.

His concept: always starting from an idea and a central ingredient, enhanced by magnifying certain facets and soothing others. Among his first six creations, we had a real crush on Parisian Musk, an ode to the seed of ambrette Peru, whose woody accents are sublimated by cedar essence Virginie and the musky facet, amplified by ambrettolide supreme and ambroxan linking the whole with subtlety and sensuality. 

Prix ​​France masculin: Rose & Cuir by Jean-Claude Ellena with Frédéric Malle perfume editions

Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena. The perfume editor Frédéric Malle. This meeting at the top has already produced refined scents: Angéliques sous la Pluie, L’Eau d’Hiver, Cologne Bigarade and Bigarade Concentrée. In this ultimate fragrance “inspired by the mistral”, we find the art of refinement; the absolute requirement of the author.

A feat that evokes a crystalline rose, recomposed without a flower petal but thanks to the Bourbon geranium and Timut pepper – with accents of grapefruit and rose, precisely. The fragrance darkens thanks to vetiver, cedar and especially a leather accord of rare elegance built around Isobutyl Quinoline –  a vintage molecule by Robert Piguet’s Bandit. Half-flower, half-leather, between light and shade, “Rose & Leather has the irresistible elegance of a barely contained storm”, according to Frédéric Malle. Beautiful on a woman, even more enigmatic on a man.

Fragrance from Finland

Scandinavia is not the first place that comes to mind when talking about perfumery. The hygge trend, minimalist beauty, natural ingredients and the now iconic Scandinavian red and white Christmas theme, but perfumery, no.

Swedish beauty is probably the most familiar to consumers with  brands such as Oriflame and Byredo, Björk & Berries, Agonist, NOT Perfumes, and & Other Stories. Some Danish brands are also familiar: Gosh, Ole Henriksen and Skandinavisk whilst less know Nordic fragrance & beauty lines include; Moods Of Norway, Eroma Perfumes, Ra Organic Skincare, Skin of Norway & Bad Norwegian.

However, all that is set to change as 2 new fine fragrance brands enter the scene this year.

Introducing Nakuna

Nakuna Helsinki is a new wave Nordic luxury perfume brand with a strong Nordic visual identity. The brand launched four unisex fragrances; Iho (skin) , Avanto (inspired by cold, watery perfection), Musta (black) Ralli (inspired by rally racing) and one female fragrance Mittumaari (Midsummer).

“Nakuna” means “naked” or “nude” in Finnish. The brand was conceived by Anu Igoni and Jaakko Veijola, who call themselves entrepreneurs and creative directors. The drawings for the packaging come from illustrator Matti Pikkujämsä. The photographs are by Markus Henttonen, while the face of the brand is Olivia Aarnio. The compositions for Nakuna Helsinki were developed by perfumers from the Swiss fragrance house Givaudan.

inspired by the peculiar nature of the Finnish people. Nakuna is the Finnish word for naked, and iho means “skin”. This fragrance refers to actual nakedness, but also to a naked, open mindset.

Finns are the strangest mix of shyness, introversion and boldness. People who would barely say hello to a neighbour, but are willing to bathe naked with total strangers. Think of Nakuna as a celebration of all sorts of naked bodies.

The fragrance is an interplay of kink and cleanliness. Creamy sandalwood and sweet musks form an intimate accord of clean warm skin elevated with animalic guaiac wood and sensuous vanilla. A gentle fragrance that invites a caress. Unisex.

“Avanto” means “ice hole”. Make a hole in the surface of sea ice, take off your clothes, breathe, and dip your body into the cold water. Feel your blood run and your senses come to life. Avanto is about absolute purification.

Invigorating icy citrus heightened with marine accords and crisp florals. Minimal in structure and unusual in execution. A long-lasting fragrance that vivifies the senses and purifies the soul. Unisex

“Musta” means “black” in Finnish. When you add a hint of black to happiness, you get a bittersweet state of mind, joy with a hint of melancholy. It is what the Finnish character is all about: happiness, with some dark undertones.

A stimulant fragrance of two opposites. The serenity of cooling black incense and tar combined with the sensuality of spicy oriental warmth. Unisex.

Inspired by Finnish rally drivers of the past. They were the explorers and movie stars we never had: They went to places and lived the kind of lives we could only dream of. Ralli stands for adventure, a trip to beautiful exotic places, a dip in an oriental mood.

The scent of a nomad who longs for the thrill of expeditions and the anticipation of coming back home. Tangy rose and exotic oud wood fuse with sweet amber to yield an affectionate and voluptuous aroma. An indulgent floral oriental that lingers and suggests subtlety through a balanced composition. Unisex.

And then, after a long winter, suddenly, we are all wide awake. Our shyness magically dissolves, and we embrace a newfound joie de vivre. The ultimate celebration of Finnish summer is Midsummer night’s fest, which is the meaning of the word “Mittumaari” in Finnish.

A magic trick to do that night: Pick seven flowers, put them under your pillow, and your future lover will be revealed in your dream.

Powdery floral with fresh bergamot built around rose and violet. An invitation to join the awakening of nature. Feminine.

Introducing Scent of Finland

Scent of Finland was conceived in 2018 to create high quality fragrances inspired by Finland’s most iconic places of wild nature tempered with the Nordic spirit, culture and aesthetics.

The concept at times referred to as The Fragrance of Memory, which, whilst highlighting the deep linkage between a smell and emotions, stipulates that a perfume can evoke the most vivid memories.

With the reference to one’s connection to scent memory the aim has been to serve those who visited the country with strong reminders of special moments of wonders and adventure experienced throughout their travel. Likewise, bringing the Scent of Finland as a gift allows one to share his emotions about the country with others through the art of fragrance.

The pure nature of Finland touches the soul. The unique lights, the green forests, the blue waters and the clean air keep calling you back. In the meantime, always keep a part of Finland on you.

Kajo is Finnish for shimmer. The Midnight Sun illuminates the summer 24/7. Always keep the magical light of Finland with you.

Its composition is described as sensual, powdery and warm. According to the brand, Kajo represents the floral fields of Finland in summer. Its composition is dominated by bright notes of lily-of-the-valley and soft and powdery rose.

Kaltio is Finnish for spring. Finland has the cleanest water. Treasure the 180 000 lakes, let the pure natural springs refresh you.

Kaltio is a light, aquatic, and citrusy composition which represents the waters of Finland. Kaltio is a modern scent worked around a citrus theme of bergamot and lime, as well as green, ozonic notes that illustrate the Lapland lichens and permafrost tundra covered in snow.

Korpi is Finnish for deep forest. 70% of Finland is covered in green gold. Retreat to the forest, feel it inspires and revitalizes you.

Korpi is described as a woody, incense and spicy composition, which illustrates the forests of Finland. Full of aromatic warmth found in Finnish saunas that bring the spirit of renewal to your body and soul. This detoxifyng fragrance is inspired by warm, woody birch notes, united with cardamom, sage, and incense.

Vire is Finnish for breeze. Finland has the cleanest air. Breathe on top of a fell, see the Northern Lights dance above you.

The fragrance is described as clean, fresh, and cocooning. Vire’s composition consists of clean musky and powdery notes that represent the northern lights. The mineral facets of this fragrance bring the Lapland landscape to life.

Tom Ford’s scandalous new scent; Rose Prick

Tom Ford is back with a new installment in his series of scandalous perfumes.

After launching candidly named ‘F*cking Fabulous’ perfume in 2017, and the wink wink nudge nudge ‘Lost Cherry’ scent in 2018, Ford has announced a new addition to the headline grabbing scent collection.

The designer has revealed his next Private Blend perfume will be ‘Rose Prick’

Flesh. Petals. Thorns.

This cheeky fragrance is all about a trilogy of rose notes. Inspired by Tom Ford’s private rose garden, Rose Prick is a wild bouquet of beautiful breeds of rose – Rose de Mai, Turkish Rose and Bulgarian Rose.

Rose conjures up old fashioned fragrances worn by your Grandmother however, this fragrance is anything but. Added spicy hits of Sichuan pepper, turmeric and tonka bean give the classic floral fragrance a delicious overhaul, whilst a dry down of Tolu balsam and musk mean ‘Rose Prick’ lingers long after the evening’s hedonistic events have come to an end.

Speaking on his latest outrageous eau de parfum designed for women and men, Ford said:

‘The prick of a rose. The slight pain that yields such sensual pleasure. Inspired by my own rose garden, Rose Prick is a wild bouquet of intoxicating and rare hybrids.A trilogy of Rose de Mai, Turkish and Bulgarian roses. Sharp and pristine. Warm and sensual. A heady bouquet of blooms in pink perfection. The danger of being so close to beauty heightens the seductive power of Rose Prick.’

Previous fragrances in this ‘scandalous’ line-up include:

Lost Cherry

Luscious. Tempting. Insatiable.The luscious artisanal scent features warm and sweet gourmands.

A full-bodied journey into the once-forbidden; a contrasting scent that reveals a tempting dichotomy of playful, candy-like gleam on the outside and luscious flesh on the inside. Innocence intersects indulgence with an opening that captures the classic perfection of the exotic cherry fruit – Black Cherry’s ripe flesh dripping in cherry liqueur glistens with a teasing touch of Bitter Almond.

The heart bursts forth in cherry waves of sweet and tart. Griotte Syrup expresses the textured maceration of voluptuous fruits while breathtaking florals Turkish Rose and Jasmine Sambac penetrate the senses and soul. Peru Balsam and Roasted Tonka at the drydown suggest a new portrait of an iconic symbol. When blended with an unexpected mélange of sandalwood, vetiver and cedar, the finish reaches fantasy-inspiring levels of insatiability.


Fucking Fabulous

Explicit. Exclusive. Fabulous. A decadent oriental leather with an intoxicating grip captures a rarefied air.

Evoking the private exchanges and insider moments where fantasies come true, the scent can only be described in one way. With a name that says it all, the vibrant opening makes an instant statement as clary sage and fresh lavender command attention with aromatic foreplay.

Delectable bitter almond and vanilla inflections infuse textural richness to the leather heart. Drenched in orris root from the iris flower, the full luscious body of the supple Italian plonge reveals its exquisite beauty. Addictive tonka bean and lavish leather drive the scent as amber undertones reverberate with a warm glow.

Ultra-fine blonde woods create a confident expression of pure luxury with a creamy finish.

Diptyque: Raw Materials in Colour fragrance range

‘Raw materials are to perfume what colours are to painting’

In June Diptyque released 5 best selling creations in colours inspired by their main raw material/key ingredient. The ‘Raw Material in Colours’ collection features Do Son, Eau des Sens, L’Ombre dans L’eau, Philosykos and Tam Dao. As fragrance combining for bespoke and personalised scents is such a big trend at the moment, the brand also suggests key combinations from the bodycare line that can be combined to make a perfect fragrance duo.

Do Son in turquoise to evoke the freshness of tuberose
Eau Des Sens in golden yellow reflecting the bright notes of orange blossom
L’Ombre dans L’eau in pink echoing the fruity and tangy rose notes
Philosykos in green mirroring the scent of fig leaves
Tam Dao in sweet orange reminiscent of the woody heat of sandalwood

A night at the ‘Fragrance Oscars’ with the French 2019 FIFI winners

The 27th French FIFI Awards took place on June 13th 2019 in the centre of Salle Wagram (Paris), bringing together hundreds of professionals and guests of the perfume industry. The French FiFi Awards differ from the UK and US ceremonies with their 3 distinct voting categories.

  • Prix du public – determined by the vote of Internet users
  • Prix des professionnels – determined by the vote of professionals whose companies are members of the Fragrance Foundation
  • Le prix des Experts – determined by the vote of a group of journalists and evaluators of adherent companies.

The public and the panel of professionals vote for perfumes belonging to the same categories and the industry experts, meanwhile, focus on the field of niche perfumery, as well as the exclusive ranges of major brands. Lots of events photos can be found here if you want to people spot! But now..drumroll please..the winners…

Prix du Public Best New Masculine Fragrance: Kenzo Aqua pour Homme

For Him, a dive into a contrasted water. Pink Berries splash the Walnut Leaf with their fresh, fusing notes, a one-on-one with singular, addictive vegetal accents. Crisp and gourmand Sandalwood marries with Cedar in a refreshing duo to surprise us: unctuous, precious, it lends subtle savory notes and vibrates with sensuality to sign this fresh and stylish woody scent.

Prix du Public Best New Feminine Fragrance: Cacharel Yes I Am

Top Notes: Mandarin, Raspberry, Cardamom.
Heart Notes: Ginger Flower, Jasmine, Gardenia.
Base Notes: Milk, Sandalwood.

A bold and daring perfume that will give you the confidence of a bold red lip. The oriental fragrance opens with fruity Mandarin and Raspberry before diving into a spicy floral heart of Ginger Flower and Gardenia. A creamy base of Milk and Sandalwood rounds off the captivating scent. Housed within an eye-catching lipstick bottle.

Prix du Public Best Feminine Luxury Distribution: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle Intense

An oriental, woody and ambery fragrance with an extreme character. The fragrance is structured around an overdose of patchouli, warmed by an ambery accord of Vanilla absolute and Tonka Bean. A heart of rose and jasmine and the contrasting freshness of citrus add their notes to write this powerful score.

Prix du Public Best Masculine Luxury Distribution: Azzaro Wanted by Night

Cinnamon, Mandarin, Cumin, Incense, Cedarwood, Tobacco and Cypress

Prix des Professionnels Best New Feminine Fragrance: Givenchy L’Interdit

The elegance of white flowers; bright orange blossom, addictive jasmine and creamy tuberose, paired with an ‘Intense Black underground’ accord made up of smoky vetiver, earthy patchouli and a sensual ambroxan.

Prix des Professionnels Best New Masculine Fragrance: Hermes Eau de Citron Noir

Inspired by Black Lime or Noomi Basra, a very flavourful dried lime (without the fresh notes) used in Middle Eastern cuisine. A striking and explosive scent with its innovative juxtaposition of accords including black tea and Paraguayan wood. Citrus fruits are bright and invigorating, while the smokier, woodsy aroma of black lime excites the senses. 

Prix des Experts: Best Independent Niche Fragrance: Memo Moroccan Leather

Recalling the white-meets-blue tones of Chefchaouen city and the delicate iris fields splayed throughout Morocco, this musky scent will transport you to the indigo city. Key notes of floral iris butter and ylang ylang combine with leather accord and smoky vetiver fraction oil to create the perfect balance of uplifting freshness and alluring richness, which lingers irresistibly on the skin.

Prix des Experts: Best Affiliated Niche Fragrance: Diptyque Fleur de Peau

A tribute to the mythical love between Psyche and Eros, which led to the birth of their daughter, Hedone. One scent can convey this legend: musks. At the heart of Fleur de Peau, they are cottony, soft or moist. Highlighted with iris and ambrette seed, they reveal their full tactile dimension.

Prix des Experts Best Fragrance in Exclusive Collection of Major Brands: Bottega Veneta Parco Palladiano XIV – Melagrana Eau de Parfum

Fresh and radiant, the EDP perfectly captures the aromas of spring’s awakening, with enticing notes that evoke the rebirth of flowers and fruits, anchored by an intense and resinous cedarwood base. Recalling the bursting vibrancy encapsulated within the juice-filled pearls of plump, ripe Pomegranates, tempered with the bright rays of early morning sunshine, the delicate pale pink juice boasts a sunny fragrance with hints of Mandarin and sweet Blackcurrant buds yet to bloom.

A night at the ‘Fragrance Oscars’ with the 2019 USA FIFI winners

Recently the US Fragrance Foundation held their annual awards ceremony celebrating the best new launches voted for by industry professionals and consumers. They also have a brilliant page of more info with packaging, social media and an Awards Journal published on Issu (sample below). Read on to see who won the votes to get one of the industry’s most coveted awards.

Fragrance of the Year: Women’s Luxury: Tom Ford Lost Cherry

Tom Ford’s Lost Cherry is a full-bodied journey into the once-forbidden; a contrasting scent that reveals a tempting candy-like gleam on the outside and a luscious flesh on the inside. Centred on black cherry, it’s accented with voluptuous fruit and breath-taking florals: Turkish rose and jasmine sambac for waves of sweet and tart. Peru balsam and tonka are juxtaposed with sandalwood, vetiver and cedar – giving freshness to the dry down.

Fragrance of the Year: Women’s Prestige : Jo Malone Honeysuckle & Davana

The wildness of honeysuckle, winding through the English countryside.
Climbing. Twisting. Ever more alluring after dark. Fresh with rose and the aromatic, fruity twist of davana. Woody with moss. Warmed by sunshine.

Fragrance of the Year: Women’s Popular: Ariana Grande Cloud

This addictive scent opens with a dreamy blend of alluring lavender blossom, forbidden juicy pear and mouth-watering bergamot. The heart of the fragrance is a whipped touch of crème de coconut, indulgent praline and exotic, vanilla orchid. Sensual musks and creamy woods add a cashmere like feel that seduces the senses.

Consumer Choice: Women’s Prestige: Marc Jacobs Daisy Love

This gourmand radiant perfume for women reveals its first notes in a vibrant burst of sweet cloudberries. Delicate daisy tree petals mingle with sparkling cashmere musks and driftwood to create a lasting and memorable gourmand twist

Consumer Choice: Women’s Popular: Victoria’s Secret Rebel Tease

You have no rules. So that’s how we made this fragrance. We asked our perfumers to create a floral that broke from tradition. And they delivered Tease Rebel, an urban bouquet tied in white leather. Wild Rose clashes with two types of Violets, a pretty mess of florals. Our signature White Leather note is sueded and softly musky. Unexpected. Edgy. A rebellious floral

Fragrance of the Year: Men’s Luxury: Bleu de Chanel Parfum

An aromatic, intensely woody fragrance. It opens with powerful freshness, then lingers with a precious accord of New Caledonian sandalwood that unfurls its generous, powerful notes in a dense and sophisticated trail.

Fragrance of the Year: Men’s Prestige: Dior Sauvage Eau De Parfum 

The powerful freshness of Sauvage exudes new sensual and mysterious facets, amply renewing itself with the signature of an ingenious composition.
Calabrian bergamot, as juicy and spirited as ever, invites new spicy notes to add fullness and sensuality, as the woody ambery trail of Ambroxan® is wrapped in the smoky accents of Papua New Guinean vanilla absolute for greater virility.
François Demachy, Dior Perfumer-Creator, drew inspiration from the desert in the magical hour of twilight. Mixed with the coolness of the night, the burning desert air exudes profound fragrances. In the hour when the wolves come out and the sky is set ablaze, a new magic unfolds

Consumers Choice: Men’s: Paco Rabanne 1 Million Lucky

Woody top notes pulse over addictive hazelnut. A fragrance with a beat. Stimulating the senses

Home Collection of the Year: Diptyque 34 Collection

The 34 boulevard Saint Germain candle has a scent which reveals itself as fresh, green and spicy accords. Damp mosses, crumpled blackcurrant leaves, sun-dried fig leaves all favorite raw materials.

Hall of Fame: Donna Karen Cashmere Mist

Donna Karan Cashmere Mist, is the iconic scent that started it all. A sheer, soft veil of Moroccan Jasmine, Lily of the Valley and Bergamot with warm undertones of Sandalwood, Amber and Musk. Created to seduce the senses, by a woman known for her great passion for all things cashmere.

Perfume Extraordinaire: A Lab on Fire Hallucinogenic Pearl

The air is warmed and stilled, the sky a hazy shade of blue. Here, free of all restrictions we stay up too late, rise too early, just to be here. Here, the gaze focuses, then looks past. Here, a sense of genuine divinity is felt between skin tones and Venetian blonde, leather and lace. And more, much more than this, we do it our way.
Top~ ambrette seeds, bergamot, pinkpepper berries
Mid~ violet, Iriseine De Laire, orris
Dry~ suede, blond woods, musks