Category Archives: Ingredients

Crabtree & Evelyn signals a new era after focusing on their heritage

Reading news at the beginning of 2019 that Crabtree and Evelyn were disappearing from the retail space and going online save for one retail concept store was not surprising. The brand has a loyal following, but being an avid product trend tracker (it’s part of my job after all) it was easy to see they were leaving innovation and product development behind and simply focusing on their cult best sellers. 

Cosmetics Design did a very good article on what went wrong, but essentially it was relying on its legacy rather than connecting with its customers needs or diversifying to meet the demands of new customer bases. 

However, fortunes look set to change, as this month the brand debuts a redesigned e-commerce site and content platform. Not only have they managed to keep their older brand lines for their loyal customers, but they’ve come up with a refreshing new and simple idea that really fits their brand story/heritage and fits with a new generation of consumer. Inspired by Cyrus Harvey, wanderlust and nature enthusiast and also the brands founder the new ethos is; Born Curious. Grown Wild. 

The new and refreshed website and carefully created social media platforms focus on 2 new collections named..Crabtree and..Evelyn! Crabtree is a gender-less collection with apple as a core ingredient focus, whilst Evelyn focuses on rose.

The website sums the collections up: Crabtree; For him. For her. For every lifestyle. Meet the unisex collection that’s refreshingly different.

Evelyn Rose; born from a rebellious desire to do things differently, a rose-inspired collection that’s not all soft and floral – it’s got thorns and attitude. 

The Crabtree collection is designed to be shared and the unisex collection balances both sweet and spicy notes so it doesn’t step into masculine or feminine territory. The crabapple influence hasn’t been forgotten though and many of the products contain apple extract, apple fruit water and apple AHA’s. 

The Raw Instinct Scent opens with a burst of unexpected fruit (citrusy pomelo and lemon-laced kumquat) – it’s refreshingly distinct. 

  • Top Notes: Pomelo – refreshing citrus, Kumquat – sweetness with a hint of lemon and pine.
  • Middle Notes: Eucalyptus – airy, green aroma, Apple blossom – delicately floral, Jasmine – subtly sweet.
  • Base notes: Vetiver smoke – earthy to add depth, Papyrus – a pinch of spice, Guaiac woods – for longevity.

The 8 piece collection includes; Refresh + Renew Face Foam, Renew + Nourish Hand Cream, Cleanse + Awaken Shower Gel, Smooth + Refine Body Lotion, Buff + Invigorate Body Bar and Raw Instinct Scent.

Evelyn Rose is a modern scent with a collection that puts skin care as a primary focus.

Femme de Force, the fine fragrance of the collection, bottles up the fiery spirit of a rose and detonates attitude with every spray. The range includes Soft Touch Face Foam, Lustrous Body Oil, Satin Hand Cream, Femme De Force Scent, Silky Body Lotion and Velvet Body Melt.

  • Top notes: Italian Lemon – a burst of citrus, Elemi – aromatic resin, Olibanum – sharp frankincense, Cassis – refreshing blackberry.
  • Heart notes: Rose – a woody rose that’s not your average pretty petal, Nutmeg – for added warmth, Cashmere woods – harmonic blend of musk and wood.
  • Base notes: Vetiver – adds an earthy edge, Guaiac wood – an exotic wood that has hints of tarmac and smokiness, Musk – for a sensuous finish.

The brand is losing its traditional heritage products either. In another very clever brand development they have kept the old, bestselling products and simply renamed the collection ‘The Archives‘. 

I really have to say that I think the new collections are clever, simple and thoughtful. They have a personality and story as well as key ingredients and on trend product formats. 2 of the biggest trend influences have been merged. K-beauty is all about more and Scandi Beauty is all about less and I think this brand has released a really good capsule collection combining this ideas in 2 core collections, that more importantly, can be added to in order to keep it fresh and on trend for the new generation of consumers. Bravo Team C&E!

A night at the ‘Fragrance Oscars’ with the 2019 UK FIFI winners

The UK’s 27th annual FIFI awards held by the Fragrance Foundation took place in May in London. The award winning fragrance products are listed in the article below and you can click to find information about best new media campaign, packaging or Retailer. Plus if you wanted to find out what brands and products were submitted for the awards you can click through to the Fragrance Foundation Finalists page. They also have a great Instagram page full of all the award winners and more, which is definitely worth following whether you are in the industry or just fragrance obsessed! So to kick off the fragrance Oscars..the first awards goes to….

Best New Home Fragrance Product: A Midsummer Dream – Roja Parfums

The enchanted woodland of Shakespeare’s imagination is able to come to life. Notes of Patchouli, Oakmoss, Tree Moss and Vetiver stage the forest floor whilst zesty Grapefruit blends with the liveliness of Cardamom and Pink Pepper to bring the whimsical spirit of the story to life. Titania, Queen of the Faeries, is written to have slept on a bed of Musk and Rose, which are both used in this potion, whilst the powdery balsamic tones of Carrot Seed blend with Orris and Musk to create an ethereal, dream-like state where fantasy and reality blur.

People’s Choice for Women: Chanel Coco Mademoiselle EDP Intense

An oriental, woody and ambery fragrance with an extreme character. The fragrance is structured around an overdose of patchouli, warmed by an ambery accord of Vanilla absolute and Tonka Bean. A heart of rose and jasmine and the contrasting freshness of citrus add their notes to write this powerful score

People’s Choice Men: Dior Sauvage Eau de Parfum

Spicy & juicy bergamot unfurls a woody trail enveloped in vanilla absolute.

Best New Independent Fragrance: Cloon Keen Atelier Roisin Dubh

A mythic Irish rose
A dusky haze of Damascena rose, entwined with a dry paper accord and ink-stained patchouli, unfurls into a brooding base of smoky incense, black pepper and tobacco absolute.
Róisín Dubh (little black rose) takes its name from a subversive 16th century song, which has become an enduring emblem to Irish writers.

Perfume Extraordinaire & Best New Women’s Fragrance: Diptyque Fleur de Peau

A tribute to the mythical love between Psyche and Eros, which led to the birth of their daughter, Hedone. One scent can convey this legend: musks. At the heart of Fleur de Peau, they are cottony, soft or moist. Highlighted with iris and ambrette seed, they reveal their full tactile dimension.

Ultimate Launch: Dior Joy

Zested Bergamot and Mandarin explode in unison with flowers. Grasse Rose, in both Essence and Absolute form, as well as heady Jasmine, blend with these delectable fruits in a vibrant smile. Warm and creamy sandalwood embraces us in softness. An intimate signature, the clear and powdery whisper of musks creates a tender and sensual skin-on-skin effect

Best New Men’s Fragrance: Diptyque Tempo

During the 60s, a certain scent was changing the world: patchouli. It conveyed a sense of freedom and spirituality that was closer to nature, and the hopes of a generation that was reinventing the future.
Tempo is a tribute to this olfactory icon. It is a nuanced composition of three patchouli extracts from the Indonesian Island of Sulawesi, that hovers between elegant and woody, enveloping and earthy. Elevated by violet leaf, Tempo vibrates on the skin with remarkable sophistication.

Holiday Fragrance Product of the Year: Diptyque Sapin de Lumiere

And that the stag spirit appears in the twilight forest! From this light is born the flaming fragrance of the fir trees, warmed by the delicate, neighbouring cedars.

Best New Fragrance Limited Distribution: Women: Alexander McQueen Parfum Collection

Click to visit the collection here

Best New Fragrance Limited Distribution Men: Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo Cipresso di Toscana

The time-honoured fougère with an Italian slant that’s at once modern and classic. Evoking a cool breeze, it opens with a refreshing star anise and elemi accord that’s illuminated by sparkling notes of orange and petit grain. Sage and lavendin introduce an aromatic heart before a woody base of cypress and pine alludes to the serenity of being silently surrounded by nature.

Clay is one of 2019’s hottest beauty ingredients

Clay is not by any means a new ingredient to the beauty shelves. Mud style face masks infused with clay have been around for a LONG time, but with charcoal becoming a mega ingredient and a big focus on using mother nature inspired beauty ingredients, clay is back in a BIG way to inspire bath and body and haircare launches in new ways!

Clay, as an ingredient , is basically full of minerals with powerful qualities to draw out toxins. Easily sourced, this skincare gem has been around since the beginning of time. There are various types of clay that work to exfoliate the skin or tighten your pores and since it’s super cleansing and detoxing means the cross from skincare to bath & body and hair care market is a match made in product heaven! So far in 2019 we seem to have a fondness for red, pink and green clay, plus a bit of bentonite sprinkled in!

Green Clay (also known as French Clay or Sea Clay) has a high plant content and is especially good for oily skin. Pink clay is a form of kaolin clay. Kaolin clay is a white clay found in nature and is pretty gentle. The higher the percentage of iron oxide present in the kaolin clay, the more red it will appear — and thus, the more absorbing it will be. That’s why red kaolin clay is great for thick, oily skin. Pink clay sits right in the middle of white kaolin and red kaolin…safe for sensitive skin, but still pretty powerful.

Obviously as clay is a natural material its mineral contents will vary dependent on where it’s ‘harvested’. French Pink Clay has a different content compared to Australian Pink Clay and therefore each give different beneficial effects (important for product formulators and marketeers to know because consumers do their research these days and you don’t want to get your benefits mixed up!).

French pink clay contains trace amounts of iron, illite, montmorillonite and calcite. Illite is great for decongesting pores (especially on acne-prone skin) and also boosts blood circulation to make skin look younger and more toned. Montmorillonite is absorbent, to gently sop up excess oil, and calcite is a crystal that’s said to be great for purifying your energy – (minerals and quartz trend in one!).

Australian pink clay, on the other hand, contains silica, magnesium, selenium, and zinc in trace amounts (in addition to the same iron and calcite that French green clay has). Silica is a natural anti-inflammatory substance that also helps lock in moisture (which is why pink clay is so great for dry or eczema-prone skin), magnesium helps the skin retain its natural fatty acids, selenium is an antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals, and zinc helps the skin heal.

So, with this wonder ingredient, with eons of provenance, it’s no surprise that brands such as Sand & Sky became so popular and that clay was on the radar for lots of new launches!

And talking of new launches here are a few newbies; our February 2019 Bath & Body New Product Report highlighted the first wave of launches – it was the month for clay clearly!

Cult brand Milk Makeup’s new Watermelon brightening Face Mask with clay

The Palmolive Pure range includes a Eucalyptus, Aloe Vera and Rose edition all infused with clay, whilst Bath and Body Works focused on Bentonite clay in masks. Nivea launched some cool sounding scents in; Ginger & Basil, Hibiscus & White Sage and Blue Agave & Lavender, all with clay as their cleansing ingredient and Dove launched Purifying Detox Green Clay Body Wash and Renewing Glow Pink Clay Body Wash. So now we are waiting for the men’s market to catch up..L’oreal Men is focused on charcoal at the moment with a smattering of clay mixed in and Dove Men is also mixing the 2 ingredients so there won’t be long to wait for green and red or maybe yellow and white clay for men..

If you want information on over 100 new products delivered to your inbox each month then sign up to our annual Report and get the latest edition in minutes: https://www.trendaroma.com/product/annual-subscription-bath-body-new-product-report/

Also just as a random final thought..volcano clay… I have zero job envy for anyone having to dig this stuff up!! They say it’s super rich in minerals but..I’m not sure the thought of skincare nirvana would be enough for a spa day at the foot of Mount Etna at the moment!! Happy product hunting to all until next time….

Cannabis oil will be trending in personal care in 2019

As more countries are now legalising cannabis for medicinal use, we see the plants power ingredient, a compound called Cannabidiol also known as CBD, become big news in the beauty industry, especially in skincare. 

Herbivore Emerald Facial oil; Deep moisture meets flash absorption in this skin calming and seriously hydrating blend of Omega-rich and irritation soothing Cannabis Sativa Seed (Hemp) Oil

So before anyone starts saying the beauty world has gone completely potty (sorry, it had to be done) it turns out that CBD is a bit of a wonder ingredient in wellness, you could say it will be the high note of 2019 (yep, I’m still going)! Plant power, from seed to stem or farm to face is huge business – consumers want active ingredients that have an actual effect. Pretty packaging and wild, unsubstantiated claims just won’t cut it. So enter plant goodness, especially anything with CBD, as although it’s been making an appearance in 2018 in niche, indie and luxury this ingredient will be going mainstream in 2019. Check out a few of the latest launches, from bath salts to soap and face oils.

SKINCARE WONDER EFFECT: Cannabidiol, the compound found in cannabis won’t get you high, but is believed to soothe pain, inflammation, and anxiety.  Its unique concentration of essential fatty acids (EFAs), antioxidants, proteins, and anti-inflammatory properties, nourish, protect, and renew your skin.

High is a revolutionary beauty brand powered by Cannabis sativa (not CBD) and formulated using only Cannabis seed extracts. Alongside the cannabis seed their facial oil includes; Bioflavonoids – Red Grape Seed, Cranberry, Pomegranate and Black Cumin plus Potent Plant Oils such Coconut, Black Currant Seed, Argon, and Cranberry. All in all a powerhouse of natural ingredients! 

Cannuka is the unique combination of cannabis and Manuka honey. CBD (derived from hemp), is a non-psychoactive compound found in the cannabis plant, with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant qualities that protect the skin. Manuka honey originates from the Manuka bush in New Zealand, which is part of the Tea Tree family. Manuka honey is world renowned for its vast healing properties. Cannuka’s two natural ingredients connect nature and science to bring together beauty and health.

Murad has tapped into the stress-relieving skin care trend with the launch of Revialixir Recovery Serum, its first product to contain cannabis oil.

The NYTimes recent piece on the influence of cannabis in beauty mentioned; Lord Jones, which is based in Los Angeles, as not the only brand to market a pain-relieving CBD body lotion, but one of the chicest. Founded in 2016 by Robert Rosenheck, who has a branding background, and his wife, Cindy Capobianco, who has led public relations for Banana Republic and marketing for Gap, it is a leader in a movement to make marijuana more attractive to a mainstream audience. They said that the  packaging, with a baronial crest and gold accents, would look at home in a fashionable department store. Also it doesn’t hurt that quite a few big celebrities use the product, especially on feet that need to be in skyscraper heels all night long! 

Vertly Bath salts with CBD also use locally wild-craft yarrow, marjoram and rosemary herbs, a slow extraction process, and infuse with minerals, salt and essentail oils – sounds like self care bliss! 

For more info on new launches and new products subscribe to our New Launch Report or buy the latest edition. Plant power was highlighted in the New Product Report for Bath & Body in November 2018.

This Report is published monthly with all the latest product launches, new ingredients, new scents, trends, innovation, new product development and industry news you need in a ready to go format.

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